I agree with what Bill & Murf have said. The size of your tractor and size of the trailer also make a difference. Always place the load such that you have some tongue weight. Although too much tongue weight is not good.

If you have a tandem axle trailer, place the CUT's rear wheels approximately over the trailer's rear tandem axle. If your CUT has a rear mower, tiller or blower mounted to it, you may need to drive forward slightly. Conversely, if you have only a loader or front blower on it and nothing on the rear, you may want to move the CG (center of gravity)back slightly. As you are driving on you should see you trucks rear bumper settle a little. If the rear bumper squashes allot and the truck's front end is up in the air you have too much tongue weight or not enough trailer for the load.

I usually use chains with load binders at the front and back and anchored such that the chain is in a "V" shape giving stability to the load. I also have a "D" ring between the tailer's axles. I place a 10,000 lb. rated strap over the tractor's platform and snug her down.

Quite often, I wrap a chain around something like one of the lift arms. This prevents the load from slipping or shifting. If you have something like a piece of rubber 1/8"x4"x12" you can wrap that around the implement first to prevent or reduce scratches.

As you drive out your driveway, always use the manual brake actuator to set sensitivity. With a load, having them just begin to slide on a gravel driveway is good. That way, the trailer brakes do most of the stopping, saving wear and tear on the tow vehicle. This also gives you good, straight stops.

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